If you’re unsure how to implement a control strategy for your garden, orchard, or property this is a good place to start.

Each option includes a combination of control methods that can effectively minimise or prevent fruit fly damage, and help you play your part in controlling the spread of fruit fly.

Alternative plants

Growing plants such as trees and shrubs, known as hosts, that don’t inherently attract fruit flies can be an affective prevention method for you and your garden. These can range from small shrubs to larger ornamental trees that are suitable for growing in the home garden.

Actions to control fruit fly are generally not needed, leaving you more time to do other things.

Potential sources (unmanaged fruit trees) of fruit fly infestations are removed, benefiting neighbouring gardeners and nearby fruit production areas.

Growing plants such as trees and shrubs, known as hosts, that don’t inherently attract fruit flies can be an affective prevention method for you and your garden. These can range from small shrubs to larger ornamental trees that are suitable for growing in the home garden.

  • Appropriate selection of plants that are not susceptible to fruit fly attack.
  • Control of regrowth of removed host plants and fruit trees that may occur.
  • Selection of plants or trees that are suited to your location.
  • Proper care and maintenance of new plants in your garden.
  • Plant characteristics that are important to you such as size, growth habit, fruits.
  • How you will use the plant, such as shading, visual screening and noise shielding.
  • Location suitability such as soil type, drainage, climate.
  • Water restrictions in your area, if any.
  • Nearby infrastructure, including clearance from powerlines and underground pipes and cables.

When selecting alternative plants, make sure you choose the right one for you and your garden. Your local garden centre should be able to help you make this decision and advise on appropriate care to help with establishment and maintenance.

Below are some examples of exotic and native ornamental plants that may be suitable for growing in the home garden. Note that while some exotic ornamentals such as Prunus and Pyrus have been suggested, some do have small fruits that could be affected by fruit fly in high-risk areas, although there is limited evidence that these plants are a problem.

Examples of exotic plants (not native to Australia):

  • Pyrus ussurensis (Machurian pear)
  • Acer (Maple)
  • Fraxinus spp. (Ash)
  • Ornamental Prunus spp.
  • Prunus mume (Japanese apricot)
  • Magnolia spp.
  • Camelia (various cultivars).

Examples of native plants:

  • Acacia pendula
  • Agonis flexuosa
  • Callistemon spp. (various cultivars)
  • Eremophila maculate
  • Eucalyptus erythrocorys
  • Grevillea hookeriana (Red hooks)
  • Grevillea (‘Misty Pink’ and ‘Majestic’ cultivars)
  • Grevilla ‘Honeygem’
  • Harpullia pendula (Tulipwood)
  • Hymenosporum flavum (native frangipani)
  • Leptospermum rotundifolium
  • Melaleuca stypheliodes
  • Melaleuca incana spp. Incana
  • Melaleuca nesophila
  • Melaleuca wilsoni.

The time to plant ornamental trees will be dependent on the type of tree. Deciduous trees can be planted either when dormant during winter; or in the warmer seasons (spring and autumn) when in leaf. Annual plants that maintain leaves are best planted during the warmer seasons, particularly spring and autumn. Fruit trees can be removed any time of the year. However, removing the tree when it is not fruiting saves you the trouble of removing and destroying the fruit (see host plant removal and sanitation).


Baiting consists of applying a liquid food (protein) attractant and an insecticide to the foliage and trunk of trees and plants. Once the flies start feeding off the sprayed foliage, this now poisoned food source will be ingested by the flies, reducing the numbers in your area.

  • Baiting controls both the female and male adult fruit fly.
  • Only small amounts of chemical (insecticide) are used through baiting.
  • Baits are generally not attractive or harmful to beneficial insects that may be natural enemies of fruit flies.
  • Organic baits have low risk to human health.
  • No withholding periods as baits are not applied directly to fruit.
  • If you live in relative isolation in an area with low fruit fly pressure.
  • Are willing and able to diligently apply bait sprays in the garden.
  • Grow large quantities of crops or heavy bearing fruit trees (where exclusion may not be an option).
  • You are able to tolerate some fruit fly damage to your crops.
  • Want to use a low impact control method, with the option of using organic products
    are alright with the idea of using a cover spray if baiting does not give adequate fruit fly control.
  • Keep foraging poultry in your home garden.
  • Timing of the first bait treatment you apply.
  • Effectiveness of the bait spray product that you choose to use.
  • Proximity of your garden to nearby sources of fruit flies.
  • Amount of fruit fly pest pressure in your area.
  • Regularity of treatments and fruit fly pressure.
  • Practicing baiting in combination with other control methods such as sanitation.
  • Proper application of bait sprays on to plant foliage and tree trunks.
  • Need trapping to see if baiting effective, if not noticeably reduce fly numbers, then need to cover spray.
  • If you live in South Australia, do not use baits unless you have been authorised by your local department of agriculture or primary industries.
  • Baiting requires diligence, with sprays applied on either a weekly to bi-weekly basis, depending on fruit fly numbers, as well as after rain.
  • Bait sprays need to be applied careful to avoid contact with fruit which may cause fruit burn.
  • Safety to humans when using baits is based on the insecticide used.
  • If baiting is not significantly reducing fly numbers, you may need to cover spray.

Instructions on how to bait spray will vary depending on the product you choose to use. Make sure that you always read the product label details for specific spray application instructions, usage recommendations and label (legal) requirements.

The time to start your baiting program may vary depending on the product you use. But generally, you should start baiting before.

  • the adult fruit flies become active (i.e. when the first adult flies have been detected or found in traps)
  • five to six weeks before fruit ripens, and sometimes even before the plant flowering stage (that occurs before fruit formation)

A range of fruit fly spray products, both organic and chemical, can be sourced from commercial suppliers.

Managing Queensland fruit fly in citrus—A New South Wales fact sheet

Queensland Fruit Fly—A New South Wales fact sheet

Mediterranean Fruit Fly—A Western Australian fact sheet

Video: Managing Mediterranean fruit fly in backyards—Department of Agriculture and Food WA

Cover Spraying

If you need a quick and controlled method for preventing fruit fly, cover spraying might be right for you.

Typically, cover spraying is dispersed over the entirety of  a crop For large-scale farm crops, this is done via large machinery that blows fine droplets throughout a tree’s canopy or through an overhead boom spray for low crops.

Traditionally systemic insecticides such as dimethoate and fenthion (trade names Rogor and Lebaycid) were used in this way and were able to kill fruit flies present in the orchard. This also had a residual effect that would kill any eggs or larvae either in fruit or laid into fruit after the treatment.

However, many previously permitted uses of these sprays have since been withdrawn.

There is a range of other chemical products that can currently be applied via cover sprays, such as clothianidin, trichlorfon, and chlorpyrifos, with other chemicals being trialled by researchers and state departments of agriculture. For the latest information on chemicals that are registered for fruit fly control, and the particular cropping situations, you should consult the Public Chemical Registration Information System (PubCRIS) or your local chemical supply company or garden store.

For home gardens alternative approaches such as Spinosad based insecticides can be used.

Before you implement cover spray methods, consider whether you live in an area prone to fruit fly attacks, and whether you have the time to implement this strategy into your garden (as spraying needs to be maintained diligently).

Speaking to local experts in your area is always recommended before starting your fruit fly management plan.

  • Effectiveness of the cover spray product you use.
  • Usage in combination with other control methods such as sanitation and baiting.
  • Timing of the spray application (best before fruit fly have attacked)
  • Adequacy of spray coverage on to plant parts.
  • Managing any off target impacts, such as injury or damage to other plants, animals, environment or property.

Video: Control of Mediterranean fruit fly in WA backyards—Department of Agriculture and Food WA

Mediterranean fruit fly—Department of Agriculture and Food WA

Early Harvesting

Picking fruit just before it ripens (or sometimes when it is green) is an easy way to prevent fruit flies from damaging the fruits of your labour.  This practice may deny adult flies the opportunity to infest your fruit, depending on fruit fly pressure.

Early harvesting can also be achieved by planting early fruiting varieties of fruits and vegetables. These plants tend to bare produce before fruit fly populations increase as the season advances and temperatures increase.

  • Helps break the fruit fly breeding cycle by denying the pest a place to lay its eggs.
  • Relatively easy to do and costs nothing other than your time.
  • Can help you get the crop before the birds do and before it becomes spoiled.
  • If you live in a low fruit fly pressure area.
  • Prefer to use organic fruit fly control approaches.
  • Want to help prevent initial fruit fly infestations.
  • Are willing and able to regularly inspect and pick fruit.
  • Grow crops that are suited to being picked early or when green, such as pears
  • Have a good idea about the times when fruit fly populations tend to increase.
  • Usage in combination with other control methods such as sanitation and pruning.
  • Level of fruit fly pressure in the area.
  • Suitability of crop to being harvested early.
  • Regularity of inspection for best time to harvest.
  • Storage of produce while awaiting it to ripen.
  • Development of flavour and taste.

Try to pick your fruit as early as possible. If you aren’t planning on eating your produce right away, you can store produce in the refrigerator so it lasts longer. Alternatively, you can try picking your home grown produce green and ripening it indoors.

Some fruit and vegetables do ripen if picked green—something to keep in mind if you are living in a fruit fly prone area.

Produce protected from fruit fly using exclusion and cover sprays can be left to ripen on the tree or plant.

Fruit and vegetables should be harvested either just as it begins to ripen, or when green if it can ripen indoors (note that fruit fly can still infest green fruit).


Exclusion methods stop female adult fruit flies right in their tracks, using physical barriers to stop them from reaching your produce all together. By using barriers such as nets, bags and sleeves; female flies are forced to stop laying eggs in your crop and search elsewhere for a suitable host.

Mount Alexander Shire Council and the City of Greater Bendigo, in partnership with Agriculture Victoria, produced a series of educational videos on managing Queensland fruit fly. This episode covers exclusion.

  • Completely protects your crop so that you can harvest it larvae (maggot) free.
  • Allows produce to ripen as normal on the tree or plant.
  • Requires a once only application of exclusion products over your crop.
  • Can help protect your crop from other insect pests, as well as possums and birds.
  • Some exclusion products can be reused from year to year.
  • Relatively low cost and easy to use when compared to cover spraying.

Before you implement exclusion control methods in your garden, check the criteria listed below to make sure it’s right for you.

  • You live in a fruit fly prone area, particularly in highly infested areas.
  • You want to use an effective, organic method without the use of chemicals.
  • You need your produce to ripen on the plant as it is unsuited to being picked green.
  • You are willing and able to spend time in the garden placing barriers on plants and monitoring fruit for ripeness.
  • You have had only limited success with other control methods such as cover spraying and baiting.
  • You want the option of either making your own or buying exclusion products.

While exclusion is a strong first line of defence against fruit flies, there are several factors that can affect success, as detailed below.

  • Integrity of exclusion barriers, for example well secured, and free from tears and gaps.
  • Timing of the placement of barriers over your fruit and vegetables.
  • Usage in combination with other control methods such as sanitation and pruning.
  • Removal of any infested fruit if barriers are placed on plants late in the season.

Before implementing exclusion control methods into your garden, you may need to reflect upon the following:

  • Exclusion can be labour-intensive and time-consuming when installing, monitoring and removing barriers from plants, particularly if you are using bags and sleeves and have a big crop.
  • Requires that you prune trees to a smaller size so that you can more easily install, check and remove barriers.
  • Integrity of exclusion products may be damaged if are not removed at the end of the season.
  • Barriers may not be aesthetically pleasing to the eye (if this a concern to you).


When it comes to exclusion prevention methods, the earlier you start the better. As soon as that first petal drops (an indication that pollination has occurred) and fruit begins to show the first signs of developing, you are ready to start putting in your fruit fly barriers.

Placing exclusion products on the plant at this time will best protect your produce, since fruit flies tend to target fruit and vegetables that are maturing or ripe. If you suspect that your produce has already been stung, then remove it before netting or bagging. Note that self-pollinated crops can be covered any time before fruit matures or ripens.

If you are feeling creative and have the option to do so, creating your own exclusion barriers can be simple and cost-effective. While homemade nets and frames may need a little more work, exclusion products, such as cloth or paper bags and sleeves, can be made relatively easily from items around the house. Regardless of what materials you use, your homemade exclusion barrier should be made to withstand all weather conditions.

Some ideas for making your own physical exclusion products are provided below.


  • Nets can be made from materials such as mozzie (mosquito) nets and gauze curtain material (1.6mm good for fruit flies and most other pests). Note that gauze curtain material may deteriorate quicker when exposed to weather.
  • Nets can be made from mozzie nets, cut or sewn to desired shape and size.
  • Mozzie nets can be purchased from places such as textile suppliers, department stores or hardware stores – note that lace curtain material may be unsuitable as it eventually deteriorates and become unusable).
  • Frames for nets can be made from materials such as electrical conduit/Polypipe (for example two inches in diameter) that does not lose its shape in the sun.
  • Frames can be constructed by crossing over and securing (tie with wire) together two lengths of pipes over the tree.
  • Frames can be secured in the ground by slipping end of polypipe over pickets (for example star pickets) in the ground.
    Also consider buying umbrella and gazebo nets and frames (need to cover hole at top) which may have zipper on side for easy access.

Bags and sleeves

  • Bags and sleeves are generally easier to make because of the size required and materials needed. Some gardeners have been known to use brown paper lunch bags (which may get soggy when it rains); wax paper bags that are used for keeping mushrooms in; and mozzie netting cut and sewn to size.
  • Sleeves can be made from materials such as mozzie netting, fly screen and gauze curtain material, also cut and sewn to desired size.
  • Both bags and sleeves can be secured to the tree or plant with string, clothes pegs or tie wire.
  • Netting cannot touch ripening fruit otherwise fruit flies may still be able to lay their eggs through the net.

Host plant removal

Physically removing host plants in your area is a great way to reduce the presence of fruit flies in your area. Through this hands-on method, you can stop neglected fruit trees (those growing on vacant blocks, in laneways or behind commercial premises) from attracting fruit fly species. Removing unwanted and neglected trees can help prevent the build-up of fruit flies in your area.

  • Helps eliminate fruit fly breeding grounds.
  • Reduces the effort you need to manage pests such as fruit fly.
  • Reduces pest pressure on neighbouring gardens and nearby fruit production areas.
  • If you own your own home (if you are renting you could ask the landlord to remove any fruit trees from the property).
  • Live either in a fruit fly prone or free area.
  • Are not able or willing to perform essential fruit fly control methods.
  • Have surplus produce lying around or left unharvested on trees and plants.
  • Want to reduce your workload in the garden.
  • Have legislative responsibilities to comply with.
  • Have water restrictions in your area that limit your ability to properly care for your plants.
  • Proper killing of tree stumps to prevent regrowth or removal of roots to prevent suckering.
  • Removal and disposal of any fruit left on the plant or tree and at its base (see sanitation).
  • Host plant removal requires physical work, consider whether you can do the work yourself, need help or need to hire a professional.
  • Removal of trees requires the right equipment to be able to do the work.
  • Consider whether you need to remove all host plants or just some to help make your garden more manageable.
  • Consider whether you could just prune the tree to a more manageable size rather than remove it.
  • Consider whether you are going to replace plants with alternative plants.
  • Check your garden to see if you are placing any infrastructure at risk of damage, such as underground pipes and cables.

Start by removing neglected and unwanted trees from your garden. Depending on the size and your capabilities, fruit trees and produce plants can either be removed by yourself or a tree removal service provider. You may also want to check with your local council or department of agriculture or primary industries to see if they offer a tree removal service. Once you have removed the tree, apply a herbicide to the tree stump immediately after cutting or removing roots to prevent suckering. Also, check the area where the tree was removed for any regrowth and remove any that occurs. If you notice neglected host plants on vacant blocks or commercial premises, report it to your local council or department of agriculture or primary industries.

While fruit trees and produce plants can be removed at any time during the year, the best time is before fruit development. Removing the tree or plant before fruiting occurs will eliminate the work you need to do collect and dispose of the fruit properly (see sanitation).

Non–preferred hosts

If you want to enjoy the fruit in your garden without fruit flies, there are non-preferred host fruit and vegetable you can choose from. It is important to note that the extent to which non-preferred hosts are prone to fruit fly attack depends on many factors—from fly species, fruit variety, damage and stage of fruit ripeness, and availability of other more suitable hosts.

  • Potentially more produce saved from loss to fruit fly attack.
  • Reduced or no effort required to control fruit flies in your garden.
  • Cost savings by reduced need to control fruit flies.
  • If you live in or near a fruit fly prone area.
  • own your own home (renters may be able to plant smaller crop plants).
  • are unable or unwilling to control fruit fly in your home garden.
  • still want to grow your own produce but do not want to have to deal with fruit fly.
  • are considering the removal of plants from your garden that are prone to fruit fly attack.
  • Selection of plant varieties that are suited to your locality, climate, soil etc.
  • Resistance level of the plant variety to fruit fly attack (may need to control fruit flies).
  • Availability of other, preferred hosts for fruit flies around your garden.
  • The level of fruit fly infestation in your area and nearby areas.
  • Non-preferred hosts that are suited to and do well in your area.
  • Whether there are other serious pests of non-preferred host plants that

When selecting non-preferred host plants for your home garden, you should generally try to choose varieties with thicker or tougher skin. This can help prevent fruit flies from being able to sting and infest produce. Your local garden centre should be able to help you find the right plant for you. You can also get advice about which varieties to plant from books and the web.

Here are some of the plants that are not highly preferred by fruit fly.

Medium risk fruit fly host fruit and veg

  • Avocado (try thicker skinned varieties such as Sharwil and Haas)
  • Blackberry
  • Button squash
  • Cashew apple
  • Cherry
  • Cucumber
  • Custard apple (winter ripening varieties are best)
  • Date
  • Eggplant
  • Feijoa
  • Grapefruit
  • Jujube
  • Longan and lychee
  • Mulberry
  • Orange
  • Passionfruit (possibly major host)
  • Persimmon (varieties such as Fuyu are susceptible)
  • Pomegranate
  • Pumelo
  • Pumpkin
  • Quince
  • Rockmelon Rollinia
  • Sapodilla
  • Strawberry
  • Soursop
  • Tamarillo
  • Tomato (when ripe is major host)
  • Walnut
  • Watermelon

Low risk fruit fly host fruit and veg

  • Fig
  • Grapes (sometimes affected)
  • Lemon and lime (avoid thin-skinned varieties like Meyer lemon (lemons are resistant when green)
  • Monstera
  • Olive
  • Star apple (possibly major host)
  • Tangelo

Non hosts include

  • Choko
  • Coffee
  • Jackfruit (if undamaged)
  • Longan
  • Mangosteen
  • Pineapple
  • Rambutan (if undamaged)

Other non-preferred hosts include:

  • Blueberry (is sometimes affected)
  • Bananas (resistant to attack when green, otherwise high risk)
  • Grumichama
  • Mango (some resistance to Mediterranean fruit fly, but prime Queensland fruit fly host)
  • Kiwi fruit*
  • Nashi Pears (sometimes affected)*
  • Mulberry (sometimes affected)*

Source: Adapted from Horticultural Policy Council (1991), The impact of fruit flies on Australian horticulture. HPC Industry Report No. 3, the Council


By pruning your trees to a manageable size, you can make implementing fruit fly control methods such as exclusion, cover spraying, baiting and sanitation much easier.

Mount Alexander Shire Council and the City of Greater Bendigo, in partnership with Agriculture Victoria, produced a series of educational videos on managing Queensland fruit fly. This episode covers pruning.

  • Easier to implement fruit fly control methods such as netting.
  • Smaller crop yields are more manageable.
  • Helps eliminate potential sources of fruit fly infestations from unharvested fruit left high up on tree branches.
  • Smaller fruit trees mean you can plant more, different varieties.
  • Sometimes a better quality and tastier fruit is produced from a pruned tree.

Pruning is an effective control to implement into your garden if you fit the following criteria:

  • You prefer to use low impact fruit fly control methods.
  • You either want to help prevent fruit fly from establishing in the home garden or to help control an existing fruit fly infestation.
  • You are willing and physically able to do the work or can find someone else to help.
  • You have a surplus of fruit growing in your garden.


The best times of the year to prune your fruit trees are late winter or early spring, when your trees are generally dormant.

While pruning is an easy and effective strategy to implement into your garden, certain factors may limit your success, as detailed below.

  • Usage in combination with other fruit fly control methods, as other sources of fruit flies may still be able to infest your crop.
  • Pruning to a size where you can easily harvest fruit and implement your chosen fruit fly control methods.
  • Usage of proper pruning technique to minimise harm to your fruit tree.

Removing rotten fruit (sanitation)

Fruit flies love rotting fruit, so it makes sense that removing the primary source of fruit fly infestation will have a positive impact on the reduction of fruit fly eggs and Larvae in your garden.

Sanitation involves collecting, removing and destroying all fallen and unwanted fruit in your garden. The destruction of this fruit ensures that larvae do not survive to pupate in the ground and later emerge as adult flies.

Mount Alexander Shire Council and the City of Greater Bendigo, in partnership with Agriculture Victoria, produced a series of educational videos on managing Queensland fruit fly. This episode covers sanitation.

Before you implement sanitation methods in your garden, check the criteria listed below to make sure it’s right for you.

  • You live in an area prone to fruit fly attack.
  • You are physically able and willing to undertake the work while your crops are fruiting.
  • You prefer to use low impact, organic approaches to fruit fly control.
  • You grow a surplus of fruit that falls to the ground or is not harvested.
  • You want to help prevent fruit fly from establishing in your garden in areas where it does not occur.
  • It Helps prevent and break the fruit fly breeding cycle in your garden.
  • A relatively cheap and easy to do.
  • It may also help eliminate the sources of fruit fly infestations for neighbours and near-by fruit production areas.
  • If you live in an area prone to fruit fly attack.
  • Are physically able and willing to undertake the work while your crops are fruiting.
  • Prefer to use low impact, organic approaches to fruit fly control.
  • Grow a surplus of fruit that falls to the ground or is not harvested.
  • Want to help prevent fruit fly from establishing in your garden in areas where it does not occur.
  • Usage of sanitation in combination with other fruit fly control methods (note that if you live in an area that is free from fruit fly, practicing sanitation to prevent fruit fly infestations may be sufficient alone).
  • Usage of techniques that properly destroy infested fruit and vegetables.
  • Diligence to maintain the practice.
  • While trees and plants are fruiting, you will need to collect any fallen fruit and unharvested rotting fruit on a daily basis.
  • Sanitation can require a lot of physical labour, particularly if you have a lot of crop plants in your garden.
  • Bags of baked/solarised fruit in your bin can be smelly and messy.

Fallen and rotten fruit and vegetables should be removed and disposed of, including any fruit from the tree with dimples or weeping clear sap. While there are many ways to destroy collected fruit, to make sure it is done properly, use the following technique:

  • Place fruit inside strong plastic bags (double bag if necessary) and seal tightly.
  • Expose the bag to the sun (solarising) for at least three days; or seven days if temperatures are below 30 degrees Celsius.
  • Dispose of bags in the normal household rubbish collection, do not compost.
  • Alternatively, you can collect fallen fruit in a plastic bag and place it into a freezer for two days.
  • Do not dispose of unwanted fruit and vegetables in compost piles or worm farms, instead, place it directly into the household rubbish collection.

Fallen and rotten fruit should be picked up on a daily basis to prevent it from being infested and allow the breeding cycle to continue.


There are three categories of fruit fly traps you can implement into your garden: monitoring, mass trapping and liquid protein trapping.

Mount Alexander Shire Council and the City of Greater Bendigo, in partnership with Agriculture Victoria, produced a series of educational videos on managing Queensland fruit fly. This episode covers trapping.

  • Monitoring traps are containers fruit flies can enter but can’t easily escape.
  • Male fruit flies can be attracted into monitoring traps using a powerful lure known as parapheromone. The benefit of this trap is that it lets you know when fruit flies are active, and the number of flies caught will indicate the level of fruit fly activity, but is only a guide
  • The main advantage of traps is gaining an awareness of whether fruit flies are active in your orchard and whether it is time to commence other fruit fly management activities.
  • As a general rule, monitoring traps are deployed at a low rate, often only one or two per hectare or per orchard block, so most gardeners rarely require more than one trap for monitoring purposes
  • Some traps are also used to monitor and verify that a pest free area truly is pest free.
  • There are a variety of traps available on the market, including the Lynfield (used primarily for fruit fly pest free area monitoring), the Bugs for Bugs Fruit Fly Trap, Bio-Trap, and the Susbin trap. Forms of stick traps like Jackson traps and the Fruition trap can also be used for monitoring fruit fly activity.

As the name suggests, this trapping technique is all about catching as many fruit flies as possible.

Mass trapping can use the same traps as monitoring but deploy at much higher rates.

It should be noted that the lures used in many traps are specific to male fruit flies, and egg-laying female flies will be unaffected. Therefore, mass trapping must be used alongside other proven techniques, such as protein bait sprays. Some fruit fly traps can use a female-attracting compound.

Bio-Trap also supplies a fruit fly attractant gel that attracts both male and female fruit flies. The Fruition trap uses a lure sachet and visual cues to attract fruit flies.

Liquid protein traps are designed to target the damaging female fruit fly.

Using a protein attractant, recently emerged female fruit flies will enter the trap, get caught, and eventually drown.

There are a range of different traps and lures gardeners can use, as well as making their own at home.

The main shortcoming of liquid protein traps is that they tend to have a limited range of attraction (specifically a five-metre interval around the perimeter of an orchard or garden.)

  • Trapping will help you understand when fruit flies first become active in your region and when to start using control measures
  • Trapping provides a direct visual sign of fruit fly activity and can capture newly emerged flies before egg-laying has commenced
  • The contents of traps do not contact your tree or fruit so there are no concerns about chemical residues
  • Traps are generally easy to maintain.
  • A range of traps are available, including both cheap options and more durable options
  • Most (but not all) traps are specific to fruit flies so you will not impact on beneficial insects.
  • Traps, whether used for monitoring or mass trapping are not a complete solution. You will need to use a range of methods
  • Traps do not provide quantitative information on fruit fly activity
  • Other control methods can influence trap captures
  • Liquid protein traps require regular maintenance, generally replacing or topping up the liquid weekly.

Fruit fly monitoring traps should be deployed as part of an integrated pest management approach and to help you identify whether fruit flies are active in your area. The use of mass trapping or female fruit fly traps will depend on the fruit fly pressures in your area.

  • Fruit fly traps need to be placed between 1.5 and 2m and on the eastern or north-eastern side of the tree out of direct sunlight
  • Trap lures need to be replaced on a regular basis, generally every three months
  • Correct choice of lure for the fruit fly species in your area.